900 g (2 lbs.) salmon filets
1/3 C minced leek ends
1 T butter
1 t Dijon mustard
2 C trimmed golden chanterelles
1 Bay leaf
1 C heavy cream
3 large leeks, whole, trimmed
2 sprigs fresh thyme
For 6 servings, trim 3 large leeks. Slice small cylinders of whites about 1 inch in length, and rinse out grit under cold water. Drain well.
Melt 1 T butter in a medium pot (with a thick base) and add leeks, standing on end. Crowd together in a single layer. Cover and soften over low heat about 20 minutes with a bay leaf and 4 sprigs fresh thyme, with no stirring (breaks up the shape of the leeks.) Add a couple spoons of water or dry white wine if necessary to keep from burning on pot bottom.
Once leeks are tender and cooked, add 2 T. chopped fresh dill, chives or tarragon. Optionally add 1/4 C cream. Bring to simmer just before serving, thinning with a little water if necessary. Season with sea salt. Arrange 3 leeks standing up on plate.
Melt butter in oven-proof fry pan, large enough to fit salmon in single layer. Add leeks, cover, and soften over medium heat 5 minutes. Add chanterelles, bay leaf, and sweat another 5 minutes, covered, over medium heat.
If pan is too dry, add a drizzle of olive oil. Add cream, salt to taste, and bring to simmer. Add clean salmon skin- side up, salt skin, and place in 160 C/375 F oven on top rack 5-10 minutes, depending on thickness of salmon.
Let cool off heat 5 minutes to finish cooking. If sauce is too runny, remove salmon to a plate. Whisk 1⁄2 C of the sauce into 2 t Dijon mustard in a small bowl, then reincorporate into sauce and simmer another minute or two on the stovetop.